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NES Composite Options 3D Printed Ports & More.

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Why Upgrade?
The NES Toploader was a great console but lacked quality composite video & quality sound. With this AV composite upgrade all Modern TVs and international users will be able to enjoy 8bit gaming.   The video and Sound is crisp and clean. No static, fuzz or buzz. 






Main Issues with the original RF video.
Some modern HDTVs will not accept the 240p signal from vintage consoles. Overall vintage RF signals are losing the battle with modern Displays.  RF video is also low quality because it combines all video and audio signals.

Purchasing: I offer video kits for DIY installers and  installation services here.
Install Examples Below:
There are a variety of Ports, Jacks and even custom 3D printed port available.
Below I was show a photo of each install method.

Standard RCA Jacks installed on NES shell. Advantage:  Can use standard RCA cables. Easiest for DIY installers vs other options. Disadvantage: Holes are drilled in the case.
This is the TRRS 3.5mm jack to RCA femal cable. I also offer 6' gold plated cables with this upgrade. Advantages: No holes drilled in the case. Install looks factory and original. Disadvantage: Custom cable required but included with every install.

Up-close view of TRRS 3.5mm jack.Very Clean  and factory look. New port uses the original RF hole. This is my favorite install method and popular.
Most economical solution for customers that want to preserve the case and not drill holes.







Custom rear port made on a 3D printer. This item will soon be available. Advantages: You can now have RCA jacks and not drill holes in the body. Clean factory look. Disadvantages: some may not like the white color of the 3D plastic (can be painted) Will cost more than the standard RCA version above.  Extra $30-$40 prices have not been determined. Prototype


Custom rear port made on a 3D printer. Fits Nintendo SNES + N64 style cables Normally reserved for RGB mods. Advantages: You can now have a Nintendo style AV port on your toploader. Clean factory look. This can output Svideo and RGB id fully modified. Disadvantages: None really Extra $35, some may not like the white color of the 3D plastic (can be painted)





Youtube Videos on each Option:

 RCA and TRRS

 RCA 3D Printed Mount

 The 3D Printed Full Multiport (used with RGB mod in this video)

 Other Issues worth Noting with Composite Mods:

Note: Famicoms and NES are infamous for "Jailbars" on the RF and AV video. The effect varies from consoles to consoles.  With each upgrade I will reduce the Jailbars as much as possible.  Keep in mind that most  will have this slight effect on RF or AV. Some TV's will not display the effect, others do. The only sure way to reduce this 100% is full RGB upgrade.


My Console ships to the Oakland Museum of California.

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Several people asked me about this event. I figured it was time to post an article. This originally took place back in early 2014.

When the Oakland Museum of California contacted me I was surprised. The museum was planning a major exhibition, Super Awesome: Art and Giant Robot. This exhibit would be featuring art, toys, interactive games and more. Coinciding with the 20th anniversary of Giant Robot the groundbreaking alternative art and culture magazine.


The museum was looking for a working original Famicom for their exhibit. Luckily I had exactly what they needed. I built a perfectly restored original 1983 Famicom console. This console had newly installed power caps, voltage regulator, restored Mic and controllers. An absolute perfect Famicom for play & display.




Hand-on gaming center
The museum wanted a hands-on gaming center for visitors and consoles for display. We discussed several methods of  properly installing a 30+ year old console for reliable game play. The gaming center would be part of a much larger exhibit. Artworks in the exhibition represent a range of mediums, including mural art, sculpture, illustration, portraiture, large-scale installations, graphic novels, photography, and more.





In addition, the exhibition will feature Giant Robot magazines and ephemera, vinyl toys, custom vending machines.



Artists include: Ako Castuera, Sean Chao, David Choe, Luke Chueh, Hamburger Eyes, Andrew Hem, James Jean, kozyndan, Masakatsu Sashie, Shizu Saldamando, Rob Sato, Amy Sol, Deth P Sun, and Adrian Tomine








“Woven throughout the exhibition is a sense of how Giant Robot celebrates Asian and Asian American cultural identity with playful irreverence,” says Adams in her curatorial statement. “The voices of the artists highlighted in the show add their own perspective, further complicating the story and enriching the experience.”




Famicom inside a Famicom Car Paradox 
My favorite part of the planned exhibit is the Famicom styled Scion XB. Designed by Giant Robot publisher and editor Eric Nakamura. Columnist and gearhead Len Higa. It sports the old Famicom colors. Each seat has its own NES gamepad, and the car's headlights project the game on any convenient wall. The back holds a Famicom and LCD panel and additional rear projector.









SuperAwesome explores how these artists, their artwork, and the magazine’s community exposed wider audiences to the diversity and complexity of Asian, trans-Pacific cultures and identity, and helped to bring it into mainstream popular culture.

Overall I think this was the coolest exhibit during 2014! I was honored to be a part of this special event.  Watch the videos below for more information.


Watch the Famicom Car!
 

More On SuperAwesome: Art and Giant Robot




My Console PCB Prototypes are Here!

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This project took longer than I ever imagined but finally the prototypes are in my hands. Learning the software and printing guidelines is challenging. I have been designing PCBs (printed circuit boards) for the various console video, audio & Circuit Bending music projects. These will be replacing the DIY kits that are sold in my store and will be the current boards used in my upgrade services.






Some of the designs here have existed for many years. I've been hand assembling most kits or customers were mailing in Kits to be installed. I was seldom satisfied with the kits on the market. I would notice flaws in the design or want extra features. Producing my own Kits will make future installs cleaner and more affordable for everyone.

see..  Atari spelled incorrectly. That's why i Prototype first!
Note: These are Prototypes and final colors and layouts will change.  I will be testing these over the next few weeks before ordering large batches.  The DIY "install your own" kits will be available in store sometime in July. The big job will be writing new installation instruction for every console.

 Current Prototypes:
  • Atari 2600/7800 Composite video amp.
  • Atari 2600/7800 Composite video amp with Stereo!
  • ColecoVision Composite video amp
  • Famicom  Composite video amp
  • Nes-101 Composite video amp
  • Nes-101 Composite video amp / with Stereo
  • TurboGrafx/PCE RGB amp Boards.




I have several more designs under works.
  • SNES RGB Amp
  • N64 RGB amp
  • Atari Svideo
  • ummm I cant remember..
  • More RGB Amps for various consoles. 
Atari Svideo + Composite

Atari Pause Feature Kit




    SNES PlayStation Prototype does Exist! (maybe)

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    There's an astounding split in gaming history that many retro-gamers may not know about.  The short lived collaboration between Nintendo and Sony that ultimately made them heated competitors.

    A prototype Sony PlayStation SNES - an ultra-rare piece of gaming history - has been discovered and photographed today! Often refereed to as the SNES-CD system. It has not been officially verified that the device is a genuine prototype, but it certainly appears that it is. 1990s Developers from the Sony have chimed in and claimed this is authentic. I will update this article as things unfold.







    After several years of development with Sony the plans fell through. Nintendo opted to partner with Philips instead (major failure the CD-I). While that deal faltered, Sony continued with the development of its CD-compatible PlayStation as a separate device.

    This cart  has "demo use" handwritten Japanese
    Most articles are claiming 200 of these were original made. Not  True! The 200 prototype thing is an old myth. Very recently a 90's SONY employee stated there are only 5 in existence and 2 of those are in private hands. The other one is this very early unique prototype. The rest are apparently at Sony headquarters.


    The owner of the device posted photos on Imgur (user DanDiebold) Terry Diebold, Dan's father, worked as a maintenance man at Advanta Corporation from 2000-2009. Olaf Olafsson was president of the company. Olafsson also happened to be the former CEO of Sony Interactive Entertainment that created the PlayStation. It was during Olafsson's time that Sony worked on the Super NES to play CD games.

    "My dad worked for a company, apparently one of the guys he used to work with, I think his name was Olaf, used to work at Nintendo and when my dad’s company went bankrupt” 

    The owner also has a CD and a cartridge, but doesn't know what's on either.
    "When they went bankrupt the company ordered my dad to throw a bunch of stuff out,"Dan Diebold said."As he was cleaning out the rooms he found this box." Inside, what appeared to be the prototype for the SNES Play Station. 

    "He kept a bunch of stuff from there," Dan Diebold said. "My dad has tons of old systems and stuff. He keeps everything."

    Dan says he hasn't tried turning the system on yet because its missing the power cord, but that he plans on buying a cord that will work with it soon to test it out. The system also has a cartridge and a CD. He has no idea what's on either.
    As for the future of the system, Diebold says he's not exactly sure what he's going to do with it yet.

    "At the moment, I don't know," he said. "I'm sure my dad would think about selling it because he's pretty broke."
    SNES Controller with Playstation Logo!




    Official US Patent Photos
    I manged to track down an original US patent photo and one other early image from Nintendo. The similarities of DanDiebold photos are striking. This is either the best looking fake in gaming history or an historic find.
    Unreleased Prototype Pictures from early 1990s


    Whether it still works is unknown, as a power cable needs to be sourced that will allow the prototype to be tested. Hopefully he will locate a trustworthy tech (me? I wish!) before attempting to power-on this console.
    I will update this article as the news unfolds.

    Below is a video from the owner and links to current discussions.

    Reddit Post: Here
    AssemblerGames: Here


     Official Video from Owner


    How To Remove Sharpie Marker from Plastic

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    Don't let a few permanent marker scribblings stand between you and your next second-hand bargain. Here's how to remove permanent marker from hard plastic items like SNES controllers, video games and consoles.

    Here is a perfect example of permanent marker on vintage items.  Every kid in the 1980-90s loved writing their names on gaming gear.  This can seriously hurt the value of collectables (or help you score a better deal!)












    My Tool List is Super Simple:

    • Water
    • Magic Eraser (found in every grocery store in America)
    • Optional 90% Rubbing Alcohol for stubborn stains.
    • Elbow grease 

    I like cutting my magic erasers down to small pieces.  It's easier to work with and the Box will last much longer.  Dip the magic eraser in water and start scrubbing the plastic in a circular motion.

    Depending on the darkness of the ink this process may take 5-10min.  Using rubbing alcohol will speed up the process.
    Done! Super Simple process but I wanted to share this with everyone. This will also work with Consoles and video games.  When using magic erasers beware of delicate labels or silkscreened logos. They will come off!

    Finally, ColecoVision, Atari 2600 Kits & More!

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    The early days of gaming was archaic at best. Home consoles did NOT have a pause button. Finally, you can take a break without losing your game! This mod allows you to pause your Atari indefinitely.  While the system is paused you will see random images on the screen, but your game will be waiting for you in the exact same place when you flip the switch.





    Kits or Installation Services can be purchased Here



    The Pasue kit will work on all Atari 2600 systems, 4 switch, 6 switch, and Jr. This mod works on NTSC systems. I am offering fully assembled pause kits or installation services. The DIY kits require just a little soldering for installation, but the reward is that you can pause practically any 2600 game.

    Wait...& There is more!!

    All Fully Tested and hitting the store soon!
    • Atari 2600 Svideo and Composite
    • Atari 2600 Basic Composite Kit  (simpler to install)
    • ColecoVision Composite and Svideo (amazing video quality)
    Atari 2600 Basic Composite Kit

    Atari 2600 Svideo and Composite Kit


    ColecoVision Composite + Svideo

    PXL2000 Pixel Movies on Audio Cassette + New Upgrades & Mods

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    Background: PXL-2000 (PixelVision) was released in 1987 and used normal audio cassettes to record video and audio.  It was the only video system to be developed by a toy company.

    The Pixelvision camera records in low-resolution, black and white. The cassette audio tape holds 11 minutes of footage by moving the tape at a high speed. Despite its lack of commercial success, the camera became popular with avant-garde artists and world famous Sonic Youth.


    Initially sold for $179 ($372 in 2015 dollars) and was later reduced to $100 ($208 in 2015 dollars) 

    Upgrades & Upcoming Services:  

    Much like the early gaming consoles the PXL2000 only offered RF video output.  RF video signals are on a losing battle with Modern HDTVs.  Most modern TVs will not accept or recognize the signal. This can now be reapired with composite amp outputs. New special effects and other customs options can be installed.





    1. I have developed a better Composite output that is clean and amplified. Composite video will be accepted by all HDTVs, Old CRTS & PCs with Video Capture cards. The internal amp will insure the compatibility with modern input devices.  I can install RCA jacks or a 3.5mm port with RCA cable adapter.
    2. New Belts have been sourced for the Cassette drive. Most cassette units can be restored to original operating condition.
    3. Add-On Toggle switch: Makes the image glitch and makes very strange effects while filming!
    4. Recording directly to cassettes is not necessary.  The newly amped composite video can be sent directly to a PC with video capture card, Media Centers, VCRs, Tivos, etc.
    5. Add-On Exposure level knob: Allow to lighten or darken the image while filming.
    6. Add-On Small Metal Touch Pads: Will lock the image on the frame, the sound keeps recording. Filming returns to normal when touch pad is released.

    Stay Tuned the PXL2000 Restorations and Upgrade services will hit the store later this summer.






    Notable uses of the PXL2000
    The PXL-2000 was used by Richard Linklater in his 1991 debut film Slacker. The roughly two-minute performance art scene is shot entirely in PixelVision.

    Peggy Ahwesh's Strange Weather (1993) was shot entirely on a PXL-2000. This video, which follows several crack heads in Florida, relies heavily on the camera's portability to maintain an intimate presence. The black-and-white blurred footage paints a hauntingly spectral portrait of life in poverty and addiction.

    Video artist Sadie Benning is among the most critically acclaimed pioneers of the PXL-2000, one of which was given to her by her father James Benning around the age of 15. Benning's early video diary works gained popularity in art circles, earning her a lasting reputation as an innovator, with an important presence in video art.

    Michael Almereyda used the camera for several of his films: Another Girl Another Planet (1992) and his short Aliens (1993) were shot with it entirely, and it was used for point of view shots of the title character in Nadja (1994), and by the title character to make video diaries in Hamlet (2000).

    The camera has also been used for several music videos, most notably, Mote by Sonic Youth and Black Grease by the Black Angels.

    Artist John Humphrey's notorious 2003 video Pee Wee Goes to Prison is shot on a PXL-2000, employing a cast of dolls and other toys to stage the imaginary trial, incarceration, and eventual pardoning (by newly elected president Jesse Ventura) of Pee Wee Herman for the sale of Yohimbe.

    The PXL-2000 was used by the characters Maggie and Jamie in the 2010 film Love and Other Drugs, although the black and white "footage" from the camera is shown at full film resolution.

    Rare NES Game MagMax Prototype

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    What is a game Prototype?
    A prototype is one of the first copies of the game, programmed by the programmers & mainly used to test the game for bugs and to display their ideas. Prototype Nintendo games usually contains Eprom, as opposed to the actual production roms. These are rare items and seldom found "in the wild"





    MagMax is an arcade game which was developed by Nihon Bussan, and published by FCI. The game was released in Japan on March 18, 1986, and in the United States in October, 1988. A horizontal scrolling shooter, players controlled the title hover ship in an attempt to completely construct the ship into a giant robot and to destroy any enemies attempting to stop it.
    Good Game? I think AVGN should review it!



    I recently received this game in a trade for repair services.  This is the first game prototype to enter my collection and I wanted to share the images with the public. 
    Buying prototypes is risky business and the board must be viewed and authenticated by experienced collectors.  As stated before prototype games usually contain Eproms, as opposed to the actual production roms. 
    Eproms are easily identified by the center clear window that is often covered with a protective decal.  Eproms are early forms of rewritable chips, the chips can be exposed to strong UV light (with decal removed) and erased.  Very popular and economical process in the 1980s when testing and writing Roms.






















    In the future I may make this Rom available to the public but so far the game seems identical to the final 1988 release.

    Boil vs Bending - Will Boiling The NES 72Pin Really Work?

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    Is your NES failing to read games? Blame the 72pin connector.

    For many years the most common way to clean and adjust the NES 72 pin connector was manually bending the pins back to position. This method is still very useful and valid in certain situations. You can view my older article here. which also describes how to disassemble the NES and remove the connector.



    To my surprise there is a new and improved way of adjusting the 72pin.

    Honestly I first heard about this method a few years ago. I gave it a try on the worst 72pin in my collection. Boiling did not fix the connector during that first test.  I immediately figured the boiling method was hype and never revisited the process.


    Skip ahead a few years and I decided to try the boiling process again.  It worked beautifully!  To my surprise the boiling process offers more than cleaning and breaking loose dirt & oil from the metal. The heat relaxes the metal and allows it to more closely assume its original shape.

    In my opinion this is the main advantage with boiling, the pins assume the original spacing set from the factory.  This is very difficult when manually bending pins as seen in my photo above.  Often the pins are too tight after manual adjustment.  Boiling brings the NES back to factory specs and is easy to do and difficult  to mess up.

    Manually bending the pins may be needed after boiling, so far I have encountered that.

    How to Boil:
    1. Place the connector in clean preferably stainless steel pot. I would suggest using a pot that is not used for cooking. It is a good practice to keep mad scientist projects and food separate.
    2. Add enough water to fully submerge the connector. I suggest placing it front side down, the force of  boiling bubbles will be directed inside the pins. Don't worry, the plastic will not melt.  
    3. Turn the burner on high heat and bring to a rolling boil. Let the connector boil for 30mins.  
    4. Allow to cool, rinse and fully dry before installing.  A hair dryer can speed up the drying process.

    I have experimented with adding a small amount of baking soda to the water.  Theoretically this will increase the cleaning ability during the boiling process. Baking Soda is a great natural cleaner and is proven to remove corrosion from the inner pins and hard to reach areas.  I would not advise this method with the cheap aftermarket 72pins.  Aftermarket pins are often made of aluminum which will tarnish in baking soda water = not good.

    I hope this article was helpful to my readers.  If you have any questions, comments or want to share your experiences with cleaning these 72pins please share below.

    Expansion Plans for 2016 - Macintosh, C64s & More

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    Many new services are on the horizon for RetroFixes.  The workshop size is increasing  Oct-Nov,  nearly 10x extra square footage. My websites focus has primarily been retro gaming consoles but I plan to expand. New services will be offered for the retro computing scene. You can visit the store page here and signup for future notifications.

    Early Macintosh & C64 restoration and repair services will be offered in early 2016. Prices will vary with complexity and capacitor count.  This includes MAC Logic Boards, PSU and Analog Board.







    Diagnostic Floppy BootDisc will be available for most Mac Formats. 400k 800k & 1.44mb.
    You'll be able to boot and run test software before choosing to re-cap the motherboard.
    Keyboard, Floppy Drive and Mouse cleaning & repair services will also be offered.

    Restoring the boards within the aging MACs is a great preventive maintenance measure. Failing and leaking caps can destroy motherboard traces and ICs. Replacing the caps and cleaning the boards will preserve the MAC for future generations.

    Most Customers will be able to remove the boards and ship them here. Otherwise shipping rates are much higher for 20lb Macs vs 1lb motherboard. Removal guides are available on YouTube and many other sites. 

     Old capacitors will be removed and solder pads will be fully cleaned. Board will be checked for capacitor leakage and cleaned.  Anti corrosion solution will be added to ports, jacks and slots.

    Video (not mine) demonstrating early MAC games.




    Other Plans:

    • C64 Repairs will be offered.
    • Restored C64 computers will be in the Store in early 2016.
    • A line of computer repair parts will be offered.
    • An expanding line of Retro Gaming upgrade kits are in development.



     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

      


    Sega Genesis Svideo Upgrade Kit Installation Instructions

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    Under construction!


    This article is a work in progress. Instructions are bare and basic at the moment but will be completed in the near future.








    The Amp has a very simple installation method. The right side of that amp solders to a chip found on the Genesis motherboard.  The left side connects to the Svideo port. Very simple!


    This installation guide is based on the Sega Genesis Model 1 with the "High Definition Graphics" logo. This model has large through Hole type IC chip and is considered easier to upgrade and solder.  Later versions had a smaller surface mount chip and requires more soldering skill.


    Remove all visible screw from the bottom side. When lifting top shell carefully unplug led wire.


    Next remove all visible screws that holds the motherboard down. Your consoles may or may not have RF shielding. Remove it all and take note of screw sizes and locations.



     Next we need to locate the wonderful Sony Chip.  This chip is the source of the Svideo signals.


    With Model 1 versions the chip is located under the silver heatsink.




    Sometimes these screws can be very difficult to remove. With early Model 1s the chip is also accessible from the underside of motherboard. Pay careful attention to the chip pinout. Double check your soldering and chip pins.


    Solder Points. Notice the indentation on the chip. That is the starting point where pin 1 is located.
    GND (ground) is pin 1 on the chip.
    Power (5v) connects to pin 12.
    P15 connects to Pin 15
    P16 connects to Pin 16

    Tip: Measure your wire before soldering in place. Wires should be correct size and short as possible.

    Bad photo, but an example of a surface mount (smd) chip.  Found on later model 1s (non high definition) and Model 2s.  With this chip version you must remove the heat-sink and access from top side.






    Example of soldering the chip legs.






    On Model 1s you can secure the PCB in place with this heat-sink screw.  On later versions like Model 2 or 3, add foam tape or cover bottom of board with electrical tape. There is no locking screw location on those later models

    Examples of svideo port pinout.
    PCB Amp:  (L) = Luma  /  (C) = Chroma
    GND = Solder to ground pins as illustrated below.  Tip: You can use one wire strand to connect all ground pins. Carefully wrap around the 4 bottom pins and solder.





    Jack location can vary from different console revisions. Choose a place that requires short wire lengths.
    The Svideo jack requires a 1/2 inch drill bit.  Make sure to pre-drill the hole with a smaller bit first.

    The rear of the RCA jacks (if purchased)  will require 1/4" drill bits.

    Note:  After drilling hole, make sure to solder wires in correct order. i.e. make sure the wires are threaded through the drilled hole.

    Secure the svideo jack with a small amount of epoxy or hot glue on the rear section of port..  "Less is more" don't go overboard with the glue.

     Example of clean install.



    Instructions for audio RCA jacks will be added in the future.  In the meantime I can direct you to other guides.

    View the instructions here for help with RCA jack Composite and Audio solder locations.  These instructions are not my own.

    N64 Upgrade RGB Amp Kit Installation Instructions

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    SAFETY:
    Please take proper safety precautions when dealing with electronics and soldering. Have proper ventilation and a clean work area. Research basic soldering technique if in doubt.  I cannot be held responsible for any damages that could occur to you or your equipment while following  the procedures present on this Website.  





    Why Upgrade?
    The N64 did not output RGB when released. Once upgraded the N64 puts out the best analog video signal possible.

    Special Note: This RGB amp only works for the early N64 consoles. These are indemnified by the serial number located on the bottom.  Look for numbers starting with NS1XXXX.  These early model contain compatible mothers boards marked NUS-03 & NUS-04

    Sync:This amp is designed for user that prefer sync on luma cables (most popular).  NUS-03 motherboards has CSNYC output but some users have reported compatibility issues. N64 consoles will out composite video as sync but most user do not prefer that sync method.  The PCB has a pad for Csync but this is intended for SNES Jr installs. In the future I will post relaible csync mods for the N64.

    This Kit can be purchased from my store here

    Getting Started:
    Supplies Needed:
    - N64 RGB cable. N64 RGB consoles work best with "sync on luma" style RGB cables.
    - Small piece of electrical tape.
    - Soldering skills!
    - The 4.5mm bit that opens the console(I sell these in my store)
    - Philips head screwdriver
    - Soldering iron & solder



    Start by removing all 4.5 bit screws from the bottom side of console. There are six total. Also remove the jumper pack before separated console shell.


    Next, Remove all screws around the motherboard as shown in photo (red dots only). Make note of different screws sizes and keep them organized.  View my photo for reference.

    Now it is time to prep the RGB amp.  The back side of the board has no exposed conductive metal.  Though to insure reliability I prefer adding a piece of electrical tape to the section shown in the photo.




    Next,  Place the RGB Amp over the multi-out pins. Make sure it slides over all the pins.
    For the sake of simplicity, solder all the pins down to the pcb.  In the near future I will update which pins are actually active in the circuit.




    Next, locate this spot on the motherboard:
    This location is very important, study it closely before soldering. Each hole is labeled on the motherboard. R8=Red output , R9=Green output, R10=Blue output. If this location is not on your motherboard you do not have an early NS1 N64.


    Soldering hookup wire:  Measure and cut the wires to proper length and solder them to the corresponding pads on the Amp. Most prefer to strip the wire and slightly twist the strands. Next add a small amount of solder to wire tip. Trim wire tips to very small 2-3mm in bare length. Using long wires in the R8/R9/R10 vias will cause malfunction and touch another IC chip.

    Do this to every wire before soldering to it's location. This is called "tinning" your wire. Very important step and makes you installation cleaner and more reliable.



    Solder each wire to the locations shown. Beware of large blobs of solder, work patiently.
    Avoid long leads and do not allow uninsulated wire to touch surrounding parts on the motherboard.


    Next add a small amount of solder to each RGB pad on the pcb amp.




    Next, solder each R/G/B wire to the corresponding amp pad. Keep the wire tips short to avoid hitting the metal RF shield when replaced.

    Amp Pads Explained
    R=Red Input
    G=Green Inout
    B=Blue

    Y= Luma (Ignore, only relevant on SNES Svideo enabled amps)
    C= Chromo (Ignore, only relevant on SNES Svideo enabled amps)
    CS=CSNYC (Ignore, only relevant on SNES installs)

    When finished your installation should look like this.  



    Now it is time to replace the bottom metal shielding.  The Amp is very slim and designed to rest beneath the edge of the shielding as seen in the photo. Make sure your wires are soldering with short tips and not touching the underside of metal shielding. If the shielding is hitting the amp or wire you can gently bend the shielding tab out of the way.




    Remember, the memory module has to be plugged in, or the N64 will not boot.

    Done!  Reassemble your console and start testing some games!

    SNES Jr RGB Mod Amp Kit Installation Instructions

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    SAFETY:
    Please take proper safety precautions when dealing with electronics and soldering. Have proper ventilation and a clean work area. Research basic soldering technique if in doubt.  I cannot be held responsible for any damages that could occur to you or your equipment while following  the procedures present on this Website.  


    Why Upgrade?
    The SNES Mini does not have Svideo or RGB from the factory. This upgrade is well worth the investment. Once upgraded the SNES Jr puts out the best quality video signal, compared to the older SNES models.  Svideo is also a great improvement over composite video.





    This Kit can be purchased from my store here

    Getting Started:
    - Basic soldering skills!

    - SNES RGB cable. Installing this kit enables Csync.  Look for Snes Csync RGB cables. This kit also works with Composite video as sync cables.  Though most used prefer Csync for best video quality
    - The 4.5mm tool that opens the SNES (I sell these in my store)
    - Philips head screwdriver
    - Soldering iron & solder
    -Small piece of electrical tape.




    Start by removing all 4.5 bit screws from the bottom side of console.


    Next Remove all visible screws from the motherboard. Make note of different screws sizes, the larger silver screws secure the game slot and rear multiport.  All other screws surround the board.


    Now it is time to prep the RetroFixes RGB amp.  The back side of the board has no exposed conductive metal.  There are a few silkscreen vias that might touch the motherboard.  To insure 110% reliability I prefer adding a piece of electrical tape to the section shown in the photo.




    Locate these areas on bottom of motherboard.






































    Next place the RetroFixes RGB Amp over the multi-out pins. Make sure it slides over all the pins. Special Note:  1 out 25 SNES consoles (my experience) come from the factory with the two ground pins soldered together.  If your console has this extra solder remove it before placing the amp into place. You can either snip the solder away with snipers or remove the solder with a desoldering hand pump.





    Next, solder the following pins on the RetroFixes Amp.  Not all pins are active therefor only a few required soldering.  Simply solder all the 12 pins down, for now (until page is updated)



    Next, locate this spot on the motherboard:
    This location is very important, study it closely before soldering. Red , Green, Blue an Csync are all accessed here.



    Measure and cut the wires to proper length and solder them to the corresponding pads on the Amp. Most prefer to strip the wire and slightly twist the strands. Next add a small amount of solder to wire tip. This is called "tinning" your wire. Very important step and makes you installation cleaner and more reliable.




    When finished your installation should look like this.
    Amp Pads Explained
    R=Red
    G=Green
    B=Blue

    Y= Luma (only active on Svideo enabled amps)
    C= Chroma (only active on Svideo enabled amps)
    CS=CSNYC

    Don't add large amounts of solder to the pads. Honestly I have a bit too much shown in the photo below.  I was testing prototypes are not aiming for perfection.



    Done!  Reassemble your console and start testing.


    If you purchased the Svideo enabled amp continue reading for Svideo installation:

    SVIDEO:

    Locate the SNES  "S-RGB" chip located on top near the Heatshield.  Removing the Heatshield is necessary and it is held down with 3 screws.

    Locate IC Pins 12 & 17 on the chip. Use the photo as a guide. 




    Soldering wire to these small IC legs requires some skill.  Add a small amount of solder to the legs and wire before trying to solder into place.  Once soldered follow the wiring locations path below.  The wires will go around and under the motherboard.


    Push svideo wires through this hole. Cut to correct length and then solder the amp.


    Pin 12 connect to amp pad "c" / Pin 17 connects to amp pad "Y"

    Don't add large amounts of solder to the pads. Honestly I have a bit too much shown in the photo below.  I was testing prototypes are not aiming for perfection. 



    Updates in the world of SNES Jr RGB Modding.
    Myself and many other customers prefer the look of the RGB output from this mod.  Though not all monitors and RGB setups are the same. Some users have found the RGB video too bright. If you wish to decrease the brightness the adjustment is very simple.  You can read more on this adjustment here

    - Solder three 1.1k Ohm resistors from the R,G,B location on the motherboard. The other end of the resistors solders to ground. Make sure to use heatshrink tubing to shield the resistors legs.

    Photo will be added in the near future.

    Everdrive SD Card Slot Alternatives / Preserving The Cartridge Shell

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    What's the Everdrive?


    The Everdrive is capable of running games, software and even music tracks from a SD card. Basically this is a SD card to classic console adapter.






    Filing SD card slots in the cartridge shell has been the traditional method. You can view my old article here on filing slots on NES shells here.   I have since discovered a much easier way to use the SNES everdrive and this will work for many other flash carts as well.


    SNES Instructions: (For NES Scroll to Bottom)


    There is a small micro SD adapter on the market made for Macbook Air laptops.  It's half the height of standard SD cards and perfect for this project. There are several variations on the market, purchase the one that matches my photo.




    With the SNES Everdrive the adapter fits perfectly.  No drilling,filing or hacking required!



    Simply assemble the cartridge back toget her an play. Very simple.  Obviously this method works best when your SD card is loaded with all the software and no immediate file changes are required.


















    NES EverDrive N8 Method (For Mad Scientist Only) 
    Honestly this requires simple modification to the SD adapter but I do not consider this practical for some. Follow the photo guide at your own risk.




     To remove the SD card, find a small device like a toothpick or jewelers screwdriver and push the SD card down. This will initiate the eject mechanism.
     

    Atari 2600 Composite AV Upgrade Mod Kit Installation Instructions

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    These installation guides are under construction and not fully complete. Contact us if you need additional help installing your kit.

     

    4 Switch Model

    Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.

    Tools You Will Need

        Philips Screwdriver
        Soldering Iron and Solder
        De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, Braid)
        Wire Cutters/Strippers
        Needle Nose Pliers
        Drill with 1/4″ and 1/8″ bits


    First Step: Turn the Atari over and remove the 4 screws. Set them aside in a safe place (ziplock bag). Open the case, remove the black foam covers on the switches and set them aside.




    Next remove the RF sheilding metal casing (top and bottom). Using the needle nose pliers, bend up the 4 tabs around the metal case.



    You should now have the main board like this ready to modify.

    In the middle of the board is a transistor you will have to remove. It is labeled Q201 on some 4 switch versions and Q202 on others. It’s shown in the picture on the left. Simply cut all 3 leads of the transistor.
    Next clip the 4 pins to the RF modulator (metal box with small circuit board attached). Simply cut the pins and remove.  View the photos below as a guide.








    Now we can solder in the Amp kit. All the (input) hookup points for the kit are in the photo below. Then connect the input wires and solder them in from underneath as shown in the picture. Then attach the audio wire to the base of the resistor as shown (R206). This audio wire will solder directly to the red and white RCA jacks.








    Next, Wiring and Installing RCA Jacks:



    Take the bottom half of the case and put a piece of masking tape where you want the RCA jacks to go. Use a ruler and marker and make 3 dots on the tape 1/2″ apart. Then drill 1/8” pilot holes on the dots, and use the 1/4” drill bits on the holes to make them ready for the RCA jacks. The tape and marker are just extra precautions, you could also just drill the holes if you want.

    (pic needed)

    Attach the RCA jacks by mounting them into the case with the ground ring and nut on the inside. Make sure they are tight. Have the ground ring holes be at or near he top and bend them down to make soldering easier. Take the Ground wire from the amp kit and solder it to all three ground rings. Take audio wire from the motherboard and solder it to both to the Red and White jacks. Take the (vi) "Video out" wire and solder it to the yellow jack.

    (pic needed)

    Now you are ready to put the mainboard into the case. First you need to adjust the color pot on the bottom left of the mainboard. Attach the RCA and power cables and use a game with nice bright colors you are familiar with like Pitfall or PacMan. Adjust the pot so the colors are just right. Then peel off the bottom of the double sided tape and stick it to the right side of the motherboard. Replace the foam dust covers, top case, and the screws and you are ready to play your Atari.

     

     

    Atari Jr Model 

    Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.

    Tools You Will Need:
        Philips Screwdriver
        Soldering Iron and Solder
        De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, Braid)
        Wire Cutters/Strippers
        Needle Nose Pliers
        Drill with 1/4″ and 1/8″ bits
    Turn the Atari over and remove the 5 screws. Be careful when separating the shell. There are 3 inner holding tabs, one on either end and one in the middle. Use a flat headed screwdriver or some similar tool to bend the tabs like in the picture so you can take the top cover off.  No big deal if the tabs break, the screws will properly hold the case together.

    Remove the motherboard from the case. The metal RF shielding needs to be removed. The sheilding is held in place with small metal tabs. Bend and remove the sheilding using the needle nose pliers, bend up straighten the tabs around the metal cover and remove.

    Next study the right hand side of the board toward the bottom you need to remove some components.



    Remove Transistor (Q4) by cutting all three leads. Remove a resistor (R56) by cutting both ends. You will be soldering wires in those spots in later steps.

    Remove a capacitor (C33) and another resistor (R17). These components are just above the other ones you removed, where the smaller metal case was.

    Next step we are soldering wires to the "IN" side of the upgrade PCB.  Attach the input wires to the main board following the photo below. The ground wire (G) goes into the metal strip around the board, the power wire (5v) goes into the hole from Q4



    Audio solders to the location right of the large IC. Next to the "A3" silkscreen.

    Next, Installing and Wiring RCA Jacks:

    Now you are going to drill holes for the RCA jacks. On the Jr RCA jacks can fit perfectly on the right side near the silver logo stripe. You need to be extremely careful as the Jr. case can be notoriously brittle and there isn’t much room to work with. Mark the places where you want to drill holes by using a ruler and marker. Place them 1/2″ apart and then drill 1/8” pilot holes on the dots. Then use the 1/4” drill bits on the holes to make them ready for the RCA jacks.

    pic



    Attach the RCA jacks by mounting them into the case with the ground ring and nut on the inside. Make sure they are tight. Have the ground ring holes be at or near he top and bend them down to make soldering easier. Take the Black output wire with the longest amount of bare wire and solder it to all three ground rings like in the picture below. Take the Red wire and solder it to the Red and White jacks. Take the Blue wire and solder it to the yellow jack.


    Now you are ready to put the board into the case. But first you need to adjust the color potentiometer on the bottom left of the board. Plug in the RCA cables and put in a game with nice bright colors that you are familiar with, something like Frogger or Pitfall. Adjust the pot so the colors are just right.

    pic

    Now unplug everything and put the board back in the bottom case. Then you need to attach the plastic strip for the select and reset switches.Then peel off the bottom of the double sided tape and stick it toward the lower right corner of the top cover. Now carefully put the top cover back on, making sure the mod circuit board and wires fit and the plastic strip doesn’t get disconnected. Now turn the console over and put the screws back in and you are ready to play your Atari with composite video! Please leave a comment below and let me know how it works!


    Support for PAL and 7800 is available upon request (instructions under construction)



    6 Switch Model (not complete)

    Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.
    Tools You Will Need

        Philips Screwdriver
        Soldering Iron and Solder
        De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, Braid)
        Wire Cutters/Strippers
        Needle Nose Pliers
        Drill with 1/4″ and 1/8″ bits

    First: Turn the Atari over and remove the 8 screws. Set them aside for later. Disconnect the RF cable and throw it away. Then take both the switchboard and main board out of the case. Take off the black foam covers on the switches and set them aside for later.

    pic

    Unplug the ribbon cable and remove the two screws on either side of the silver main board case. This will disconnect the main board from the switchboard. Also set aside the dust cover for the joystick and power ports. Now take the metal casing and turn it over. Unscrew the 6 screws there and throw away the bottom part of the metal casing.

    pic

    Now remove the two screws connecting the main board to the top casing. Take the main board out and it is ready to be modified.

    pic

    In the middle of the board on the right hand side is a transistor (Q202). you need to remove the transistor by cutting all 3 leads with the wire cutters. When done it should look like this.

    pic


    Now take the switchboard. You need to cut the 5 pins going into the RF modulator circuit board (silver box with circuit board attached to side. I usually break off the small circuit board attached to the RF modulator and throw it out, but if you want you can bend the pins up out of the way and leave the small circuit board attached. Remove the 5 pins using your de-soldering tool so that the holes are open as in the picture below.

    pic

    You should have a pieces of ribbon wire. First, strip off the white insulation. You can save about an inch of it to help group the wires together if you like. Next, throw out one of the yellow wires. Now you should have two groups of wires. A group of 3 output wires (Red, Black, and Blue), and a group of 4 input wires (Red, Black, Blue, and Yellow). With the new wire I use, Blue replaces Green and Yellow replaces White in the pictures. The group of 4 wires are the input wires that go to the main board. Strip about 1/2″ off of both ends of the input wires and attach them to the mod kit. Black is the GND, Red is +5v, Blue is Video, and Yellow is Audio.
    The group of 3 wires are out wires that attach to the RCA jacks. The output wires should be stripped to different lengths as in the picture. About 1/2″ for Blue, 1″ for Red, and 2″ for Black. On the output side of the mod kit, Black is for GND, Red for Audio, and Blue for Video.


    pic

    Now you need to remove a resistor (R213) along the bottom of the main board. You can just cut it off at both ends. Now the main board and switchboard are done.

    pic

    Take the bottom half of the case and put a piece of masking tape where you want the RCA jacks to go. Use a ruler and marker and make 3 dots on the tape 1/2″ apart. Then drill 1/8” pilot holes on the dots, and use the 1/4” drill bits on the holes to make them ready for the RCA jacks. The tape and marker are just extra precautions, you could also just drill the holes if you want.

    pic

    Attach the RCA jacks by mounting them into the case with the ground ring and nut on the inside. Make sure they are tight. Have the ground ring holes be at or near he top and bend them down to make soldering easier. Take the Black output wire with the longest amount of bare wire and solder it to all three ground rings like in the picture below. Take the Red wire and solder it to the Red and White jacks. Take the Blue wire and solder it to the yellow jack. - See more at: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/#sthash.DMmrRwwR.dpuf
    Take the bottom half of the case and put a piece of masking tape where you want the RCA jacks to go. Use a ruler and marker and make 3 dots on the tape 1/2″ apart. Then drill 1/8” pilot holes on the dots, and use the 1/4” drill bits on the holes to make them ready for the RCA jacks. The tape and marker are just extra precautions, you could also just drill the holes if you want. - See more at: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/#sthash.DMmrRwwR.dpuf
    Now you need to remove a resistor (R213) along the bottom of the main board. You can just cut it off at both ends. Now the main board and switchboard are done. - See more at: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/#sthash.DMmrRwwR.dpuf
    pic
    Attach the RCA jacks by mounting them into the case with the ground ring and nut on the inside. Make sure they are tight. Have the ground ring holes be at or near he top and bend them down to make soldering easier. Take the Black output wire with the longest amount of bare wire and solder it to all three ground rings like in the picture below. Take the Red wire and solder it to the Red and White jacks. Take the Blue wire and solder it to the yellow jack.

    pic

    Now you are ready to put everything back together. First you need to adjust the color potentiometer on the bottom left of the main board. It is the big plastic circle and is the only pot on the board. Attach the power, ribbon, and RCA cables and use a game you are familiar with to adjust it so the colors are just right. A game like Frogger or Pitfall with a variety of bright colors is ideal.






    Now you are ready to put everything back together. First you need to adjust the color potentiometer on the bottom left of the main board. It is the big plastic circle and is the only pot on the board. Attach the power, ribbon, and RCA cables and use a game you are familiar with to adjust it so the colors are just right. A game like Frogger or Pitfall with a variety of bright colors is ideal. - See more at: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/#sthash.DMmrRwwR.dpuf
    Unplug the ribbon cable and remove the two screws on either side of the main board case. This will disconnect the main board from the switchboard. Also set aside the dust cover for the joystick and power ports. Now take the metal casing and turn it over. Unscrew the 6 screws there and throw away the bottom part of the metal casing. - See more at: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/#sthash.DMmrRwwR.dpuf

    Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


    Tools You Will Need

    • Philips Screwdriver
    • Soldering Iron and Solder
    • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, Braid)
    • Wire Cutters/Strippers
    • Needle Nose Pliers
    • Drill with 1/4″ and 1/8″ bits
    - See more at: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/#sthash.DMmrRwwR.dpuf

    Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


    Tools You Will Need

    • Philips Screwdriver
    • Soldering Iron and Solder
    • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, Braid)
    • Wire Cutters/Strippers
    • Needle Nose Pliers
    • Drill with 1/4″ and 1/8″ bits
    - See more at: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/#sthash.DMmrRwwR.dpuf

    Disclaimer: I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari. This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk.


    Tools You Will Need

    • Philips Screwdriver
    • Soldering Iron and Solder
    • De-soldering Tool (De-soldering Iron, Bubble, Vacuum, Braid)
    • Wire Cutters/Strippers
    • Needle Nose Pliers
    • Drill with 1/4″ and 1/8″ bits
    - See more at: http://www.vintagegamingandmore.com/installation-guide-6-switch/#sthash.DMmrRwwR.dpuf

    Dead EarthBound / Adventures in Fixing SNES Games

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    This is a simple article documenting my adventures with repairing a dead Earthbound SNES game.

    The owner reported the game stop booting up.  No graphics and no signs of life. I offered to take a look and attempt repair.









    After confirming the game was not functioning I searched for a Donor cart. Often transplanting the ROM (game program) to a new board is simpler than diagnosing and repairing the board.




    Earth Bound uses a SHVC-1J3M-20 board. Luckily this board is shared with more common and cheaper games.

    Games that use this PCB type:


        Bounty Sword
        Breath of Fire II
        Chrono Trigger
        Dai-4-ji Super Robot Taisen (Super Robot Wars 4)
        Dragon Quest III - Soshite Densetsu e...
        Dragon Quest VI - Maboroshi no Daichi (my version did not match, online database needs updating)
        Earthbound
        Fire Emblem - Seisen no Keifu
        Front Mission
        Gakkou de Atta Kowai Hanashi
        Human Grand Prix IV - F1 Dream Battle
        Illusion of Time
        NHL 97
        Romancing Saga 3 (ロマンシング サ・ガ3)
        Secret of Evermore
        Seiken Densetsu 3 (せいけんでんせつ3, 聖剣伝説3)

    As you can see my copy of Dragon Quest was not compatible.  Hopefully this news will help others update the donor database.  All list suggest Dragon Quest VI was a SHVC-1J3M-20.  I had to reorder a new donor cart but this time I selected NHL 97 and it was a perfect match




    Next step is to Desolder the ROM chips. Specialized tools are required for this step. This can be difficult for most home hobbyist. 


    ROM Removed.


    Earthbound ROM soldered onto the NHL 97. Soldering is clean and matches the factory look as much as possible (I'm not a robot)







    Next step is testing in the SNES console....








    Fixed! Game booted up perfectly!  I rescued a $200+ collectible SNES game with a $5 NHL 97. Awesome!

    Later I will replace the old Game Save battery and return this to the owner.  He was trilled to have his game revived.

    ColecoVision Svideo or Composite Upgrade Mod Kit Install

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    ***Under Construction****

    Step-by-step guide for ColecoVision Upgrade Kit.

     








     These consoles do have large capacitors inside and they need to be discharged before doing repaires or upgrades. Otherwise, you may receive a slight shock. To avoid such a situation, please leave your ColecoVision game system’s On/Off switch at the ON position for at least 5 minutes with the power plug off the electricity source. Please do not skip this stage.

    Disclaimer: 
    If you are not skilled with a soldering iron, please have this installed by someone experienced! I
    cannot be held responsible for any harm you do to yourself or to your game console. 


    This is for the Composite version of the installation.  The Svideo installation is further down the page below this guide.

     

    Tools Needed
    •  Soldering iron, solder
    •  Wire Strippers (or scissors with patience and practice)
    •  Drill with 3mm 1/4” drill bit (for RCA jacks)
    •  Philips-head screwdriver

    Step 1:
    Unscrew the eight screws shown below
    (I forgot to highlight the 2 side screws). Then open the ColecoVision, separate the halves gently and carefully.  It's not easy!

    This Step can be tricky and patience is required!  The bottom shell needs to be moved back and slightly up.  Wiggle it but don't force anything. The power and reset buttons can be stubborn and prevent the shell from releasing.







    Step 2:
    Remove the two screws off the shielding over the motherboard and remove it. You may also need to desolder the RF shield from the motherboard.  Some revisions have the RF shielding solder to the motherboard & secured with screws.

    Step 3:
    Remove the metal cover from the RF box shown below.






    Step 4:
    Now, solder wires as shown below.  These wires are for the (input) side of the amp kit.



    Step 5:

    I am lacking clear pictures for RCA jack hole drilling. This is a general guide for all RCA jacks installations.

    • Placement of Jacks is personal choice.  I prefer shortest wires possible and install the jacks near the amp kit and RF box as shown.   Others prefer the Jacks near the Controller bay. It's your choice.  If picking the location show, the RF shielding will need bending and modification as shown below.
    • Spacing for most RCA jacks is 15mm center to center of jack.
    • Measure and mark drilling area with a sharpie market.
    • First drill a small 3mm pilot hole.
    • Next drill the final 1/4" hole.




    Example of RCA jacks installed.





    The illustration below is a quick overview of the pin-outs and soldering points.  View the image at max size and double check you installation.


    Final Steps.

    It’s wise to check the functionality before completely assembling the stubborn top shell. Just be careful and make sure nothing is shorted before plugging it in.  Also, cleaning the cartridge port with alcohol and a toothbrush would be a great idea.


     ***************************************************************************

    This is for the Svideo version of the installation. 

    Tools Needed
    •  Soldering iron, solder

    •  Wire Strippers (or scissors with patience and practice)
    •  Drill with 3mm 1/4” drill bit (for RCA jacks)

    •  1/2” drill bit (for svideo jack)
    •  Philips-head screwdriver
    •  Epoxy or Hot glue (for securing svideo port only)
    Basically everything is the same except for a few important steps.
    • Cut the trace as shown in the illustrations.  A sharp new box cutter style blade will simplify the task.
    •  Luma is attached outside of the RF box.  A 75ohm resistor is attached the the right leg of component (L9) View the photo below
    • The Svideo jack has 4 ground pins.  I find it easiest to bend the pins together  as shown and solder 1 wire to the ground pins.
    • A 1/2" hole is reguired for the Svideo jack. Drill a small pilot hole first and drill the final 1/2' hole carefully.  The Svideo jack will require epoxy or hot-glue to secure in place.  I find it easier to solder port first then glue the jack in place.



      Coleco Chameleon Prototype Controversy

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      It’s getting harder (if not impossible) to believe the viability of this new gaming console. Here's a quick breakdown of this systems history and current Controversy.


      2015 Retro VGS:
      This system was being advertised as a New cartridge based retro console. Much hype and promises behind the design and a grandiose two million dollar fundraising goal.  Potential Investors wanted to a see a working prototype but it did not exist. The Indiegogo campaign flopped by raising $81,158, far below its ambitious $1,950,000 goal.


      2016 Toy Fair:
      Coleco licensed their name to RetroVGS.  The system was renamed to Coleco Chameleon and started a new ad campaign. An actual working prototype was to be shown at the Toy Fair NY. Spectators were concerned why the creators used a Super Nintendo controller to play games on the Coleco Chameleon. More questions were raised on the amount of black electrical tape on the console. According to the AtariAge forum, the prototype was nothing more than the motherboard of a SNES model SNS-101 inside an Atari Jaguar case.




      Pictures comparing the SNES motherboard (inside a Atari Jaguar shell) to the official picture of the Coleco Chameleon proved it was possible. Notice the electrical tape covering the protruding SNES motherboard. It's also worth noting that the Toy Fair "prototype" only played SNES games. Pictures also arose of the prototype using SNES power adapters and the Nintendo style multiout cable.  hmmmmmm.

      Kickstarter Fundraiser:
      A new fundraiser was planned for February 26th.  Kickstarter has strict guidelines and they require working prototypes for fundraisers. Much controversy was stirring over the Coleco Chameleon. Suddenly the kickstarter plans were scraped.

      Response from RetroVGS:
       "We have decided to delay the pre-sell, i.e. Kickstarter, campaign in order to finalize our prototype and work with developers on having the best possible content,” said Retro VGS in the post. “We’ll keep you posted on any major news on our Facebook page and will let you know when we launch a pre-sell program leading up to the Christmas season."



      Latest Prototype Controversy:
      RetroVGS posted a series of new images to Facebook showing a new prototype in a clear case. Eventually members of the AtariAge.com forum discovered that the new prototype was another fake. The motherboard visible in the clear case was actually a HICAP50B CCTV capture card.  RetroVGS has quickly removed the top-down image of the prototype from their Facebook page. It was too little too late. Comparison of the prototype and the HICAP50B capture card began circulating the internet.





      Response from Coleco Company:
      Coleco Holdings issued a statement today via its Facebook page,

      "Chameleon Product: We are thankful to have a large group of passionate engineers and retro game enthusiasts who follow Coleco and other product lines. It has come to our attention that the community has certain concerns over the prototypes involving the Retro VGS model. The team at Retro remains confident that their product is developed to the extent as describe; HOWEVER, in order to confirm or debase these concerns, Coleco has demanded to inspect the prototype units within a seven day time frame. At which time, independent engineers will review their findings and determine if those units are up to our standards. We will report some or all of those findings to the community so as long as they do not interfere with proprietary information. We remain hopeful that the community's concerns are merely speculations, but if there is merit to the concerns, then we have no choice but to abandon the project rather than release a sub-par product. During this time, we ask that the community allow us time to complete these inspections. Time extensions will only be granted if requested by the independent engineer. Time extensions and results will be posted here."



      Updates will be added to the Timeline as they unfold:

      Atari 7800 Composite Mod Installation Guide

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      **UNDER CONSTRUCTION**
      99% COMPLETE


      Atari NTSC (contact me for PAL) 7800 Video Mod Installation Guide

      Disclaimer: This mod is designed to permanently remove the RF output. The mod will work if performed correctly to a fully functioning Atari. Perform at your own risk. I am not responsible for any damage done to your Atari.



      Tools You Will Need

          Philips Screwdriver
          Soldering Iron and Solder
          Wire Cutters/Strippers
          Needle Nose Pliers
          Drill with 1/4″ and 3mm bits

      Purchasing: This kit can be purchased from my store here


      Turn the Atari over and remove the 5 screws. Set them aside for later. Remove the main board out of the console.

      Using the need nose pliers, twist the tabs around the metal case so they are straight. Remove the metal casing (top and bottom) and throw it away (or recycle it)  You can choose to keep and reinstall this later.  It's not necessary and may get in the way of the amp kit wires.



      You should now have the main board like this ready to modify. On the top left hand side of the board are the 5 parts you have to remove. They are highlighted in the picture with pink X marks. Use the wire cutters to cut both ends and dispose of these parts. Then you need to cut the 4 pins going into the RF modulator circuit board (silver box with circuit board attached to side).




      The picture should look like below. These are where the input wires will connect to the amp kit to the mainboard.

      Optional POKEY Audio:
      Pokey Audio connects directly to the Red and White RCA Jacks.  The mother outputs perfect audio and the amp kit is not needed for audio output.
      Only a few games use the pokey audio, this step isn’t necessary unless you have commando, ball blazer, or some homebrew made game. If can choose not to install this wire. (Note: If the pokey audio is too low add a 6.8k resistor (or any resistor near that value) in series to the main audio out wire. This should balance out the audio better.)


       Normal audio used for all games can be found below. Audio connects directly to the Red and White RCA Jacks.  The mother outputs perfect audio and the amp kit is not needed for audio output.



      RCA Install and Soldering:

      Take the bottom half of the case and decide where where you want the RCA jacks to go. Some cases can be very brittle so be careful. There are 2 common locations for RCA jacks. It's a personal preference.



      Use a ruler and marker and make 3 dots 15mm  apart. Then drill 3mm pilot holes on the dots, and use the 1/4” drill bits on the holes to make them ready for the RCA jacks.




      Attach the RCA jacks by mounting them into the case with the ground ring and nut on the inside. Make sure they are tight. Have the ground ring holes be at or near the top and bend them down to make soldering easier.


      RCA Jack Wiring. Connect all RCA ground tabs to the ground output from Kit. Solder the yellow RCA jack to the Composite video out on from the amp kit.  Red and White RCA jacks solder to the audio motherboard point(s) shown earlier.


      Note the install shown below is only an example of final board placement and wire length.  Looking back I could have made the wires much shorter and moved the kit closer to the RCA jacks.



      Now you are ready to put the main board into the case. Peel off the bottom of the double sided tape and stick it to any clear and clean location. Make sure the amp leads and bottom and bare wires are not touching other metal parts on the motherboard.

      Replace the top case and screws and you are ready to play your Atari with composite video!

      How to Remove Old Price Labels From Collectibles

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      I love finding vintage boxed games but often they have ugly price labels covering the box art. For years I thought it was impossible to remove a 30+ year old label.  Though recently I decided to try the infamous  Naphtha method.  This is most often used in the LP Record collecting community.

      This works great on glossy paper stocks like record LP covers, most games cases, and other glossy laminated surfaces.  I haven't experimented with non glossy surfaces. I prefer using this method on low value items like my $5 Atari game shown here.  I can not be held responsible if you destroy a valuable item. Try this at your own risk.

      Disclaimer: Exercise caution when you are using naphtha.  Work safely with small amounts.  I recommend picking up a pair of rubber gloves and working in a well ventilated area. I can not be held responsible for damages caused to your item or yourself.


      Supplies:

      1. Naphtha Lighter fluid.(Unlike alcohol or goo-gone, lighter fluid will not remove any color or texture from the glossy /laminated paper surfaces.

      2. A sticker peeling tool. I prefer using the actual "label removal tools" found online or office stores

      3. Q-tips, Cotton balls or paper towels


      STEP 1:
      Find a clean and clear place to work. I prefer doing this sort of work outside in my garage. Don't work around high heat or flames.


      Step 2:
      Slowly saturate the label with lighter fluid. Make sure you get the whole sticker thoroughly wet with fluid and let it soak. The fluid will immediately start to evaporate.  To prevent immediate evaporation I prefer to cover the sticker with a plastic bag.  This will allow the fluid to work longer before evaporating.


      STEP 3:
      After 10 minutes of soaking check on the label.  Take your label removal tool and gently pry up a corner.  If the label is stubborn DO NOT force it, add more fluid if label is dry and allow more soak time.  Repeat this step as necessary. It should peel up easily when ready.





      This last label was very stubborn and required several applications of fluid.



      Especially this small glue dot in the center.  I was certain this would damage the box art but eventually came off :)


      STEP 4:
      Remaining label residue: This is where the Q-Tips or cotton balls come in handy. Rub in a circular motion to remove any stubborn glue or bits of sticker left behind. Add more fluid if needed. Most all stickers I have found come off without this final step.


      If you see oily stains or residue from the fluid do not worry. It will evaporate within a few hours. Unlike alcohol or goo-gone, lighter fluid won't remove any color or texture from the paper.




      Hope you find this How To guide useful.  If you had success removing labels please post your results in the comments section.


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